The formation of a natural diamond requires immense natural forces and a vast expanse of time. Deep within the Earth’s crust, carbon undergoes intense heat and pressure over millions of years to form this precious mineral. These diamonds are then brought closer to the Earth’s surface by volcanic activity, where they are eventually discovered, mined, meticulously cut, and polished before they make their way into the hands of consumers. Over time, thanks to clever marketing, diamonds have come to symbolize eternal love.
Lab-grown diamonds, on the other hand, are “grown” in a laboratory setting. Using natural diamond or graphite powder as raw materials, these diamonds are cultivated in an environment that simulates the natural growth conditions of a diamond. This process typically takes just a few weeks, and the quality of the final product is comparable to, if not better than, natural diamonds.
China has now emerged as a global leader in the lab-grown diamond industry. In the past, domestic brands had limited influence in the jewelry market. However, this emerging industry has provided new opportunities for Chinese brands. With a growing and increasingly refined supply chain—from raw material production to cutting and sales—Chinese lab-grown diamonds are gaining visibility among consumers. But how exactly have these lab-grown diamonds and the brands behind them “grown”?
Sustainable Green Jewelry
“The price of lab-grown diamonds online is so appealing!” remarks Beijing resident Zhu Ruifeng, who is busy planning his wedding.
The iconic slogan, “A diamond is forever,” has etched diamonds into the minds of many as a symbol of eternal love. Zhu Ruifeng wanted to choose a diamond ring to place on his bride’s finger on their wedding day.
However, after visiting numerous jewelry stores, the couple found the high price tags—running into tens of thousands of yuan—unjustifiable for something that would be worn only occasionally. “The cost-effectiveness just wasn’t there,” Zhu told reporters. Then, he stumbled upon lab-grown diamonds. “For the same weight and quality, lab-grown diamonds are significantly cheaper, saving us tens of thousands of yuan.”
So, what exactly are lab-grown diamonds, and how do they differ from natural ones?
“Lab-grown diamonds are created by replicating the natural growth environment of diamonds in a lab,” explains Wu Xiaolei, head of functional diamonds at Zhengzhou Research Institute for Abrasives & Grinding, also known as Sanmo Institute.
“From a material standpoint, lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds are indistinguishable; they are both pure carbon crystals with identical physical, chemical, and optical properties. The only difference lies in their formation process,” Wu continues.
To put it in simpler terms, if a natural diamond is like an ice cube formed naturally, a lab-grown diamond is like one made in a freezer. “They cannot be differentiated by the naked eye or simple tools—you need precision instruments,” Wu adds.
Wu further explains that there are currently two primary methods for creating lab-grown diamonds. The first is High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) synthesis, which uses a press to create an environment of 1,300-1,600°C and pressures above 6 billion pascals, transforming graphite into a diamond crystal. The second method is Microwave Plasma Chemical Vapor Deposition (MPCVD). In this process, a vacuum chamber filled with hydrogen and carbon-containing gases (like methane) is bombarded with microwaves, causing carbon atoms to break free and deposit onto a diamond seed, where they crystallize and form a diamond.
“Lab-grown diamonds typically form in just a few weeks. They can be mass-produced with consistent quality and are more environmentally friendly, earning them the title of sustainable green jewelry,” says Guo Sheng, founder of the lab-grown diamond brand Caraxy.
Caraxy, founded in 2015, was one of the first domestic brands to enter the lab-grown diamond market. “When we first participated in jewelry exhibitions, most consumers knew little about lab-grown diamonds. Some even questioned, ‘Aren’t these fake diamonds? Why are they being displayed here?’” Guo recalls.
In recent years, as production technology has advanced, domestic lab-grown diamond output has surged. By 2021, China’s production exceeded 4 million carats, nearly half of the global total. Guo is encouraged by the increasing acceptance of lab-grown diamonds among Chinese consumers. Today, Caraxy has opened stores in Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Nanjing, and Hangzhou, with plans to expand further in major cities this year.
Mutual Growth with the Superhard Materials Industry
Behind the booming lab-grown diamond industry lies a colossal industrial diamond sector.
To most, diamonds are seen as sparkling gems, but they also have extensive applications in industry. As one of the hardest materials, industrial diamonds are indispensable in aerospace, defense, photovoltaics, electronics, and many other sectors, where they are used to cut and grind various tough materials.
In 2022, China produced over 16 billion carats of industrial diamonds, accounting for more than 90% of the global output. Although China’s lab-grown diamond industry started later, it has developed rapidly, benefiting from a solid foundation in industrial diamonds and other superhard materials.
In the early days of the People’s Republic of China, the country’s industrial diamonds were entirely dependent on imports. To overcome this, the First Ministry of Machinery Industry set up a special task force, codenamed “121,” which collaborated with institutes like Sanmo to develop synthetic diamonds domestically.
After more than 1,000 days and nights of relentless effort, the team finally succeeded on the night of December 6, 1963. They observed bright crystals in their synthetic rod, and when they used these crystals to scratch glass, a clear, crisp sound confirmed their success.
This marked the birth of China’s diamond industry.
The first synthetic diamond was like a seed planted in Zhengzhou, which eventually blossomed across Henan province. Today, Henan is the hub of China’s superhard materials research and production, with over 200 companies specializing in superhard materials and products, forming a complete supply chain that includes raw materials, industrial diamonds, single-crystal diamonds, and lab-grown diamond products.
This deep industrial foundation has enabled Chinese companies to quickly seize the opportunity in the lab-grown diamond market.
Zhecheng Huifeng Diamond Technology Co., Ltd., for example, is a high-tech enterprise specializing in high-grade diamond micropowder research, production, and sales. In 2021, the company’s synthetic single-crystal diamond micropowder was recognized as a champion product in the manufacturing industry by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology.
Last August, Huifeng Diamond also successfully developed lab-grown diamonds and has since achieved mass production of high-grade diamond roughs in various specifications, all of which are exported. “While industrial diamonds are sold for just a few cents per carat, rough diamonds for jewelry can fetch hundreds of yuan per carat, enriching our product line and complementing our industrial diamond products, which significantly boosts our profitability,” says Han Jinghe, Deputy General Manager of Huifeng Diamond.
Han also mentions a “seesaw effect”: “As the lab-grown diamond industry booms, many companies that traditionally focused on industrial diamonds are shifting to lab-grown diamond production, which might reduce industrial diamond output, leading to a supply shortage and price hikes. Therefore, the growth of the lab-grown diamond sector not only diversifies superhard material products but also further advances the entire superhard materials industry. Lab-grown diamonds and the superhard materials industry can mutually reinforce each other.”
Promoting the “Growth of Love” Concept
With a strong industrial diamond foundation and expanding market opportunities, China’s lab-grown diamond industry is rapidly evolving. “Given that lab-grown diamonds share the same physical and chemical properties as natural diamonds, their lower price, superior quality, and enhanced design appeal are key factors supporting their growing share of the domestic jewelry market,” says Guo.
New lab-grown diamond brands like Caraxy, Xiaobai Guang, and Sanmo’s Dainuo are entering the market, and even traditional diamond manufacturers are launching lab-grown products, intensifying competition in this sector.
“In recent years, many lab-grown diamond companies have emerged like mushrooms after the rain, and domestic lab-grown diamond brands are flourishing. The younger consumer demographic, with its increasing environmental awareness and focus on self-satisfaction, personalization, and cost-effectiveness, presents new opportunities for lab-grown diamonds,” notes Han Jinghe.
However, Chinese brands still lack influence in the downstream segments of the jewelry supply chain. “Jewelry is a traditional industry where high prices and complex product knowledge make consumers more inclined to trust established brands. Building brand recognition takes time. In the past, the natural diamond market was dominated by Western companies in both supply chains and branding. Now, lab-grown diamonds offer a new opportunity for China,” says Guo.
The second China International Lab-Grown Diamond Industry Development and Innovation Conference was recently held. At the conference, Zhang Xiongzhi, Chairman of the Guangzhou Diamond Exchange, highlighted that China, as a major producer of lab-grown diamonds, contributes over half of the global supply. The industry’s focus is now on how to leverage China’s production advantages and domestic market potential to transition from being a major producer to a leading industry player, fostering sustainable development.
“Sanmo Institute plays a crucial role in China’s lab-grown diamond industry, with its own research and production capabilities for rough diamonds, and a strong supply chain advantage. We’ve developed our own brand to enhance the downstream value chain and support industry growth,” says Wu Xiaolei. The brand is now available on major platforms like Tmall and JD.com, helping to cultivate the downstream consumer market.
Unlike other jewelry brands, Dainuo focuses on the research and design of fancy-shaped diamonds. Unlike the more common round diamonds, fancy-shaped diamonds are crafted using intricate cutting techniques that result in various shapes, such as ovals, squares, teardrops